Basic Worm Bin Care

OK, so now you've had your worm bin for a couple of weeks, and have begun to feed your worms. How are they doing? Very well, we hope.

Common New-Bin Observations

Here are a few observations you may make with a recently-set-up worm bin. A few after set-up (if only fresh bedding was used) or earlier if the bin was inoculated with compost (see class #5):

• Worms should start to visit the small pockets of food waste you have begun placing in the bin. (You can see small amounts of their castings here and there, to show where they've gone exploring.)
• Some "critters" (see the section below) should already be found here and there in the bin.
• Moisture has equalized throughout the bin (especially in a plastic bin). Any areas of bedding have were dry have become well-moistened.
• You have begun to name at least several of your worms.

The Short Story of Worm Bin Critters

As a new bin matures, there will naturally be an increase in the number and diversity of organisms living there. This is a good sign, as they are an integral part of the composting food web!

Don't worry about critters trying to get out of the bin, either. They are attracted to the dampness in the bin, where food is available, and will not venture out into the sterile and dry territory beyond the air vents.

But will they eat my houseplants? No. These organisms will only eat decomposing organic matter.

Truly, the only reason to watch out for worm bin critters is... well, that they're so much fun to watch. Take a magnifier and get to know these tiny friends:

• Springtails (Colembola family) These small white (some are grey, even brown) animals have six legs and three distinct body segments and two antennae. Most striking however, is a spring-like organ below them that can catapult them many inches.
• Sow or pill bugs (Isopoda) Also known as "roly-poly bugs" or woodlice, they shred and consume some of the toughest materials, those high in cellulose and lignins. They have a segmented, armored shell, are brown to grey in color, have seven pairs of legs and two antennae.
• Mites (Acarina) These are often the most numerous visible inhabitants of the worm bin, feeding on decaying organic matter, fungi and other organisms. They are generally found on the surface and upper, looser layers of the bedding. They are especially attracted to sweet materials.
• Potworms (Enchytraeidae) Sometimes called white worms, these white, threadlike worms are frequently mistaken for baby redworms. However, they are another species that never becomes red. Potworms are considered a prized tropical fish food.
• Fruit flies (Diptera) Small flying insects with large, bulbous, often colorful eyes. Their larvae are voracious decomposers and adults are attracted to the acids in decomposing vegetative matter.
• Fungus gnats (Diptera) Similar to fruit flies in appearance, the larvae feed on tender plant roots. Adults are harmless, though annoying.
• Millipedes (Diploda) These long, slow-moving, wormlike animals are found in small numbers throughout the worm bin. Millipedes are long and segmented, with two pairs of legs per body segment and two antennae. Those in a worm bin are usually brown or reddish-brown.
• Centipedes (Chilopoda) Centipedes resemble millipedes, thought they have only one set of legs on most body segments and a large pair of pincers. Generally reddish, it moves fast and is the only worm predator you're likely to ever see in the bin. Remove them by hand, carefully, so as not to get pinched!
• There are also several friends in the bin that are too small to see, including: Bacteria, the most numerous organisms in the bin, molds and fungi. These last two feed on decaying organic matter,with tiny hair-like hyphae, secreting enzymes that break down and simplify the organic matter.

Tips On Good Worm Bin Care

These are a few good practices for the new worm bin. If you do these, you need not worry about having any significant problems.

• Do not add water to the worm bin unless a large part of the bin material lacks water. Some worm bin manufacturers suggest that water be poured through the worm bin and captured for use as "worm tea". The problem is, this is leachate, containing undecomposed food waste. We'll cover compost and castings tea in our ninth class.
• Dig under the bedding now, and every few weeks, to peek at the bottom-most material. If even a little bit is becoming waterlogged, that's a sign that you need to promote more aeration and/or drainage.
• Smell the worm bin. If there's any foul odor, think "what did I add or do differently, recently, that could have led to this odor?" I once caused a terrific stink in my worm bin by adding some fermenting barley I'd picked up from a brewery.
• Check to see that the temperature remains reasonably good. With changes in season, and the amount of sun that shines, a worm bin can change temperature significantly. Watch out you don't cook the worms!
• Watch for worm predators if this is an outdoor bin. Moles find worms delicious, as do birds and some dogs! Make sure the bin has a lid (and a secure bottom, if necessary for your location).

^ top

What is Vermicomposting | Worm Bin Location
Building your Worm Bin | Set up | Feeding
Basic Worm Bin Care | Troubleshooting
Harvesting Worms and Castings | Food and Organic Compost Tea
Advanced Topics | Earthworm Biology and Production